Restoration Hardware "look alike"
I am so very pleased. Here is my version of the Restoration Hardware Leaner Mirror.
Recently, I was looking to start an easy project to get familiar with the Kreg Jig. I decided I wanted to make a Look Alike to the below. The link to it is here. I didn't need one that big and definitely did not need one that expensive!!
We started with the following supplies:
(5) 1x2x8 Furring Strips ($1.29 each)
(3) 1x4x12 Patterned Pine Boards ($3.59 each)
1 can of Dark Walnut Stain
Kreg Jig
16 Pocket Screws
Brad Nailer
2 Ikea Minde Mirrors ($9.99 each)
1 package of 2-piece flush mount brackets
(8) dry wall anchors with screws
(2) sets of 4 Ook Metal Mirror clips
Optional for aesthetics or securing mirror:
1/2 Inch Paddle Bit
Additional drywall anchors and screws
1 package wooden plugs ($1.29)
(2) sets of 4 Ook Metal Mirror clips
Optional for aesthetics or securing mirror:
1/2 Inch Paddle Bit
Additional drywall anchors and screws
1 package wooden plugs ($1.29)
I purchased the cheapest wood I could find at Lowes. I am very glad I did because I absolutely love the knots and grain that were in the boards. I wanted to show as much of the mirror as I could but I had to keep the mirror around 22-23" because the wall I wanted to mount these housed the gas fireplace switch.
The mirror was 15.75" by 47.25". I deducted a half an inch all the way around for the overlap of the mirror and 1x4. The 1x4 was actually 3.5" wide so that was 3" of wood that would be added to the length of the mirror size. We cut the long side boards to a length of 53.25 (47.25+3.5+3.5-.5-.5) inches and the short pieces to 14.75". (15.75-.5-.5).
Next, we placed the cut wood on the floor to ensure it lined up. We had a little help from a friend:) We really normally shouldn't be doing wood projects in the house, but it was 96 degrees out and even HOTTER in my garage. We chose air conditioning over practicality.
Placing the short pieces in the Kreg Jig we pre-drilled the holes. While my husband was playing testing out the Kreg Jig, I used a meat mallet and a hammer to lightly add some character to the
wood. Liv hit it a few times with a socket wrench. My husband didn't think the mallet was the best idea at the time. (post stain it looks pretty good)
The next step was the hardest, I measured and then mitered the corners of the 1x2's. I attached the 1x2's with the brad nailer. Since the trim was just decorative the brads will hold nicely.
I was a bit excited by this point and you can see the mirror peeking behind the frame. We used wood filler to fill in any gaps or imperfections caused by my cutting skills.
I wanted the mirrors to bring in some warmth and so I chose a Minwax Dark Walnut. I used a cello sponge to wipe on the stain and an old t-shirt to wipe it off.
We then mounted the mirror to the back of the frame with Ook metal mirror clips here. We used four per mirror. If I was to make the mirrors again I would use two packages. I saw some instances where glue was used to secure the mirrors to the frame, but I wanted the option to remove the mirror if I decided to use the frame elsewhere.
We screwed one side of the flush mount bracket (here) onto the back of the mirror and attached the other side to the wall using (4) drywall anchors and screws. Since the mirror was only secured to the wall with the one bracket at the center top edge of each mirror, it allowed the mirror to move a bit. We decided in our home, it was best to attach the mirror by screwing the bottom corner into the wall as well and filling the hole made with wooden plugs.
We then mounted the mirror to the back of the frame with Ook metal mirror clips here. We used four per mirror. If I was to make the mirrors again I would use two packages. I saw some instances where glue was used to secure the mirrors to the frame, but I wanted the option to remove the mirror if I decided to use the frame elsewhere.
We screwed one side of the flush mount bracket (here) onto the back of the mirror and attached the other side to the wall using (4) drywall anchors and screws. Since the mirror was only secured to the wall with the one bracket at the center top edge of each mirror, it allowed the mirror to move a bit. We decided in our home, it was best to attach the mirror by screwing the bottom corner into the wall as well and filling the hole made with wooden plugs.
I dumped the 1/2 inch plugs onto a paper plate and poured a bit of stain onto the plate. I mixed them around. For this part, I recommend leaving the wooden plugs to sit and absorb the stain a bit, the darker the plugs the better they look. When they are too light, they blend in too much and you can't see them.
We then drilled 1/2 inch holes with a paddle bit in the mirror frame and secured the mirror to the wall with drywall anchors. Make sure you remember to avoid the pocket screws. We secured both mirrors with one screw in the lower right hand corners. With a toddler we didn't want the mirror to accidentally come off. We also drilled 2-3 additional holes and inserted the plugs. At first, I thought I only wanted a few plugs but think I would like more. At this point I noticed a bit of shifting of the mirror when mounted which is why even though I didn't, I would recommend more clips.
Here is a photo of the 1/2 inch hole used to secure the mirror directly to the wall for added stability.
Here are my new twin mirrors flanking the fireplace
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